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When curating a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. However, nestled high among these culinary titans is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. The recognition has made the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his family’s relentless work that led to their modest shop achieving such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the cuisine, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, toastier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary honour.